70 THE ADVOCATE
VOL. 80 PART 1 JANUARY 2022
The original flavour wheel has been updated several times. I have to
order another, as mine appears to have gone missing. So, without use of the
wheel, these are my tasting notes for this issue.
BENCH 1775 RIESLING 2018
BC VQA Okanagan Valley #482877 $22.65
This is one of the most sophisticated local Rieslings I have tasted in recent
years. (Dr. Noble would say that is not a helpful description, so I will elaborate.)
The winery is on the Naramata Bench, but the grapes are sourced
from a vineyard in Peachland. Fermented on wild yeasts, it has a relatively
low alcohol level of 12.1 per cent and is made in a slightly off-dry style. The
wine is very pale yellow in colour, with a nose that contains a complex mix
of white grapefruit, lemon-lime and green peach with wet stone and a hint
of lanolin. The flavours are the same bright citrus and green fruit with a
streak of minerality. It will age well for several more years. Food pairings
are hard cheeses, lighter seafood or poultry dishes, or South or East Asian
food. It is available online from the winery.
PEWSEY VALE RIESLING 2019
Eden Valley, South Australia #617126 $21.99
For a bit of contrast, I add a second Riesling, this time made in a wholly dry
fashion. Australia is not commonly thought of as a Riesling producer, but
this winery, which focuses solely on Riesling, has nailed it. It comes from a
mix of vines on the winery’s estate, some of which were planted in the
1960s. Again, the alcohol is moderate at twelve per cent. With a pale greenish
hue, its lifted nose is of lemon and lime with Granny Smith apple and a
hint of white flowers set against mineral notes. It has a tart and vibrant
palate with lemon peel, white grapefruit and white peach, some slight tropical
notes, a touch of Mediterranean herbs (thyme and rosemary) and,
again, wet stone. The finish is long and crisp. James Suckling gave it 96
points. The winery suggests you enjoy it with fresh oysters, seared scallops,
salt and pepper squid, Thai beef salad, or a tomato salad with pickled walnuts
and fresh basil. Again, it will also work well with South or East Asian
food.
CHAMPALOU VOUVRAY 2018
AC Vouvray, Loire Valley, France #632315 $40.00 (approx.)
This is a classic Chenin Blanc from the Loire (where they call it Pineau de
la Loire) and is aged in steel. The aromas are of green apple and lemon-