220 THE ADVOCATE
VOL. 80 PART 2 MARCH 2022
points. The grapes are handpicked and underwent carbonic maceration
lasting from 10 to 18 days for the Syrah, and a traditional maceration for the
destemmed Grenache and Mourvèdre. After malolactic fermentation, the
different grape varieties are blended and the wine aged in 225-liter Bordeaux
barrels for around eight months. The aromas open with fragrant
sweet black cherry, red plum, red licorice, Mediterranean spice and cigar
box. The same rich fruit flavours prevail along with blackberry and blueberry,
roasted chestnut and cinnamon, and the long finish has overtones of
toasty oak. It will age well for several more years and is a good bargain at
this price. The winery suggests having it with red meats, tagines or simmered
dishes or matured cheeses. I say pair it with BBQ chicken or again
with a good steak, which is what we did.
WHITEHAVEN PINOT NOIR 2019
Marlborough, NZ #161703 $24.99
New Zealand has developed a reputation for complex, full Pinot Noir, as
well as for its palate-piercing Sauvignon Blancs. This version with Marlborough
fruit has a medium reddish-purple hue that leads as expected to a
fuller Pinot style on the nose and palate. The aromas are replete with rich
red cherry, black currant and rich raspberry, with baking spice and cured
tobacco. The flavours are a mix of cherry, raspberry and plum with some
smooth berry tea, vanilla and light oak on its extended finish. Still somewhat
young in profile, it could be laid down for several more years. This is
a food wine, and the winery suggests having it with game meats such as
duck or venison or other gamier red meat dishes. Additional good matches
are roast chicken or pork tenderloin.
ENDNOTES
1. Appassimento is the method of partially drying out
the grapes, which are then slowly pressed and slowly
fermented to make Amarone della Valpolicella. Masi
has a good explanation of the process and what it
brings to the wine: “Appassimento Technique”,
online: <www.masi.it/en/appassimento-technique>.
2. (2021) 79 Advocate 49.
3. An amusing movie about this true story starring the
late, great Alan Rickman, Chris Pine and Bill Pullman
is Bottle Shock, “based on a true story of love, victory,
and fermentation”. It is available on Amazon
Prime or YouTube.
4. Anthony Gismondi, “When It Comes to Grape
Growing, the Classifications of 100 Years Ago May
Be Irrelevant”, Vancouver Sun (21 January 2022),
online: <vancouversun.com/life/food/anthony-gis
mondi-when-it-comes-to-grape-growing-the-classifi
cations-of-100-years-ago-may-be-irrelevant>.
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