THE ADVOCATE 537
VOL. 80 PART 4 JULY 2022
Here is an assortment of “old vine” wines that should be readily available.
Most can be found in B.C. government liquor stores.
KEN FORRESTER VINEYARDS OLD VINE RESERVE CHENIN BLANC 2020
Stellenbosch, South Africa #120202 $22.99
While I reviewed the 2019 version a few issues back, I return to the 2020 version.
Again, it is a mix of barrel- and tank-fermented fruit and was barrelmatured
for nine months in French oak, of which twenty per cent was new.
An attractive lemon yellow, its intense nose offers lemon lime, white peach,
a bit of mango and some apricot and vanilla. It has a medium acidity on its
creamy palate, with light tropical fruit notes of unripe pineapple, orange
and passionfruit, as well as a refreshing minerality on the long finish. It is
perfect for seafood such as salmon, halibut or other white fish, or shellfish
like cracked crab or lobster. We had it with lime-infused BBQ prawns and
vegetable skewers. Also good will be chicken breasts in a creamy lemon-
garlic sauce or pork chops with a fruit salsa. Indian food is another good
option.
SANDHILL SOVEREIGN OPAL 2020
BC VQA Okanagan Valley #23841 $18.49
As noted earlier in this column, this unique wine comes from the historic
Casorso Vineyard in Kelowna. The variety was one of several bred at the
Summerland Research Centre decades back for Okanagan-friendly wines. It
is the only one that remains planted, and for good reason. A hybrid based
on Orange Muscat, it has bright aromatics and flavours of ripe melon and
peach, with a shot of lemon-lime and a hint of white flowers. The crisp but
off-dry palate displays more of the same with some Granny Smith apple and
a bit of white grapefruit, lychee and white currant, and it finishes with a
streak of minerality. It is made to tame curries and other spicy Asian dishes,
or to pair with white fish or shellfish with lemon or in a cream sauce, spicy
pasta dishes or even macaroni and cheese.
SPERLING VINEYARD OLD VINES RIESLING 2016
BC VQA Okanagan Valley #64940 $37.00 (approx.)
The Sperlings are part of the Casorso family, and this Riesling from their
northeast Kelowna vineyard was first planted in 1978. The family has operated
this vineyard for decades, and winemaker Anne Sperling has an impeccable
winemaking background. She does it biodynamically, with decades of
winemaking experience here, in Ontario and in Argentina. The Old Vines